Tailor Dictionary

Acetate

see rayon.

---

Accuracy

Measure of the closeness of a test result to the true value. The true value of a measured quantity can only be determined by measurement systems that are calibrated by direct reference to primary references such as lenth, weight, force, etc.

Acrylic

A synthetic fiber made from synthetic polymer, with some characteristics similar to wool.

Adsorption

Temporary holding of molecules on the surface of a material.

Affinity

The degree of attraction of a dye molecule for a fiber.

Afgahlaine

A dress fabric which is lightweight with a slight brushed finish

Airflow

A method of measuring the mean fiber diameter of a sample of wool in which a test specimen (a measured mass of the scoured, dried and carded sample or a measured mass of silver), after exposure to a conditioning atmosphere, is compressed to a fixed volume and a current of air is passed through it. The rate of flow is then adjusted so that the pressure drop across the sample equals the predetermined value, or the pressure drop across the sample is adjusted until the air flow equals a predetermined value. The rate of flow in the first case or the pressure difference in the second case, is an indicator of the mean fiber diameter of the wool in the sample.

Alkali Insoluble Matter

The oven-dry, ash-free, ethanol-extractive-free, alkali-insoluble matter present in a wool sample (expressed as a percentage of the mass of the test specimen. It comprises vegetable matter together with any skin, dags, pack material, string, paper and lime).

Almeter

An instrument for determining the fibre length distribution parameters on slivers and roving made from combed wool or synthetic fibers.

Andar Applicator

Specially designed and built pad mangle for the application of Basolan to Merino wool in sliver form.

Appraisal

Subjective assessment of the value determining attributes of wool based upon length, texture, fineness, greasiness, vegetable matter content and colour.

Approach

The movement of dye molecules towards the fibre due to its affinity.

Aqua Merino

Highly hydrophilic finish applied to wool, usually knitted products to provide a cool touch and system of moisture management.

Aran

Style of cabled knitwear traditionally made and worn by fishermen from the Aran Isles off Galway, Ireland.

Arcan

An ultra-fine wool fibre perfect for creating high quality garments with luxurious softness.

Area of Origin

Code which indicates the state and area within Australia from which a wool clip originates

Ash Content

The residue of a scoured wool sample after it has been subjected to charring followed by heating to 800 degrees Celsius. It is expressed as a percentage of the sample mass and is taken to represent the dirt (sand and soil) not removed during scouring.

Astrakhan

Merino fabrics with loops or curls that resemble the coat of the new born astrakhan lamb.

ATLAS (Automatic Tester of Length and Strength)

A computer-controlled instrument which measures the staple length, staple strength and position of break of individual staples. In operation, a continuous belt conveys each staple between an array of lights and an array of photocells, which detects the ends of the staple and enables the length (in millimeters, mm) to be measured. The staple is then grasped by two sets of jaws and broken. The force required is measured in Newtons. The two pieces of the broken staple are individually collected and wighted and, from the masses, lengths and core test yield, the staple linear density (thickness) is calculated aand expressed in kilotex; the staple strength is expressed as Newtowns / kilotex (N/ktex)/ The masses of the two pieces are also used to calculate the position of break.

Australian Superfine Merino

Quality endorsement logo denoting wool garments that contain fibre which is 18.5 micron or finer. Licensed by The Woolmark Company.

Average Linear Density

The clean staple mass per unit of staple length at standard conditions

AWEX

Australian Wool Exchange, the national body responsible for market reporting of wool auction sales in Australia.

AWTA

Australian Wool Testing Authority Ltd is responsible for the independent testing of raw wool and issues test certificates

Backline

n. The imaginary line along the back of animal, following the course of its spine. v. Applying a remedy against external parasites (mainly lice) on the skin of a sheep, along the spine. Related terms: backliner - the remedy applied in this way; off-shears backliner - a backline treatment within 7 days of wool harvesting

Back-rolling

The removal of creases and running marks from rope dyed fabrics.

Backs

Fleece wool from the back of the sheep - classer will direct if there is a need to remove

Bagging

The unrecovered portion of a stretched fabric, often seen in the knees and seat of garments.

Bale Fastener

Metal clasp used to close a bale of wool

Bale Hook

A tool to help grasp bales of wool while handling

Bale or Pack

1. A rectangular sack into which shorn wool is compressed.
2. Container of wool made of nylon and pressed to specifications set in the AWEX \"Code of Practice\" for the preparation of wool (Min. Weight 110kg - Max. Weight 204kg)

Baling Twine

Made of synthetic polypropylene and one of the major contaminants of wool

BAP

Shrink-resist polymer

Basolan 88

An organic Chlorine donating agent used to treat wool in order to impart a greater natural softness, and to assist in obtaining brighter shades of colour. (Basolan trade name is BASF)

Basolan Xtra

The co-application to wool of Basolan 88 and Potassium Permanganate

Batch dyeing

Dyeing of a fabric where each batch is subjected to one stage of the dyeing process at a time, usually in the same dyeing vessel.

Bathurst Burr

AWEX ID VM type. The hooked spines strongly attach to the Bathurst Burr to wool. However, the burr is easily removed during processing because the spines break off. In many cases these burrs float off in the scouring process.

Bearding

Protrusion of fibres from the welt and cuff edges of garments.

Bellies

Short wool from belly of sheep.

Belly Wool

Wool shorn from the stomach of the sheep

Bias

The fabric direction at 45 degree to the warp or weft direction. A constant or systematic difference between a true value and corresponding test results (also see Accuracy or Precision).

Bin

Storage for a line of wool prior to pressing

Bio-polishing

Washing in enzymes to remove protruding fibres, more common in cotton knits.

Biopolymer

A polymer found in nature. Starch, proteins and peptides, and DNA and RNA are all examples of biopolymers, in which the monomer units, respectively, are sugars, amino acids, and nucleic acids.

Biosecurity

The principle of safeguarding the health of livestock and preventing the introduction of new diseases or infections. Measures taken to maintain the health of a flock / herd. Related term: quarantine

Black Wool

Dark pigmented wool (grey or black)

Bleaching

The application of selected chemicals to increase the whiteness of wool fabrics.

Blend

A textile containing two or more different fibres, variants of the same fibre or different colours and grades of the same fibre. Merino may be blended with cotton, silk, nylon, polyester, or viscose.

Blending

A process or processes primarily concerned with the efficient mixing of various lots of fibres. Blending is normally carried out to mix fibres, which may or may not be of different physical properties, market values, or colours. Blending is also used to ensure consistency of end product.

Block printing

The design is applied using carved wooden blocks.

Blowing

An alternative term for atmospheric decatising.

Board

Area used for shearing the sheep in a shearing shed

Bobbin

Also a method of packaging fibre top.

Bogan Flea (F)

AWEX ID VM Type. Bogan Flea initially forms as a spherical cluster of many seeds, about 5mm in diameter. Once on the sheep the cluster usually breaks up causing dense matting of the wool.

Boucle

A three-ply yarn with one thread looser than the others which results in the yarn waving and looping on the surface. Also, fabric woven from this yarn. Taken from the French word meaning to buckle or curl.

Bouclette

Produced in the same way as a boucle yarn, but with a smaller looping and twisting effect.

Braid

Long, coarse, lustrous wool.

Brand

(1) The markings on a bale of wool used for identification. (2) Mark placed on the sheep for identification - needs to be removed from fleece as it prevents uniform dye uptake during processing

Break (or window) in wool

A temporary interference with the growth of the wool, causing a marked thinning or cessation of wool growth of all or a proportion of the fibre population, and producing distinct (often visible) weakness in one part of the staple. A window or clear break in the wool is an extreme form of low staple strength and may be caused by the same factors causing low staple strength, for example, sudden changes in pasture, lack of feed or water, sickness, lambing or faulty dipping.

Breathable

Refers to a fabric\'s ability to transmit moisture.

Breech (or britch)

This is the area around the back of the sheep\'s tail and down the back of the hind legs. Breech wool is removed during crutching to prevent fly-strike

Broadcloth

An extremely luxurious twill fabric made using plain woollen yarns

Broken

A trade term used to describe the best wool of skirtings, having the characteristics of fleece wool.

Broker

A marketing agent for greasy wool

Broom / Paddle

Specialised broom or floor sweep used by a wool handler

Brushing

An alternative term for raising.

Bulk

A term used to describe well-nourished wool of substance, length and density.

Bump

A type of package produced by winding fibre top.

Burling

The removal of imperfections.

Burry

A term applied to wool containing certain seed pods, mainly of the medicago species. Wool carrying a percentage of burr. Light burr can be removed by the card or comb, whereas wool carrying heavy burr or vegetable matter may be carbonised prior to carding.

Butt

A package of greasy wool in a standard wool bale weighing less than 102kg or less than 91kg for lamb\'s wool. A wool pack containing wool packed down by hand

Butt Holder

Frame used to hold a wool pack to be used as a butt

Canid

An animal of the dog family, e.g. dogs, dingoes, foxes

Capripox

A group of viruses which cause diseases such as Lumpy Skin Disease in cattle, Sheep Pox and Goat Pox

Capsules

A form in which some medicines are administered, usually by mouth (i.e. orally). The 'capsule' is usually made of gelatin, which dissolves in the stomach and releases the contents. Related term: Slow release capsule - a capsule which does not immediately dissolve in the stomach, but releases its contents slowly over a period of several days/weeks/months, thus obviating the need for frequent re-treatment, sometimes used for worm remedies.

Carbo Types

Very burry wools, usually short, from which the vegetable fault cannot economically be removed by mechanical methods

Carbonising

The removal of vegetable matter from wool fabric or loose fibre using acid solution. This is followed by crushing to remove the dissolved vegetable matter.

Card

To undertake an action which removes vegetable matter and dirt from wool and which opens up the scoured wool fibre, mixing it to form a homogenous blend. This is also the first step in aligning the fibres and preparing them for spinning.

Card sliver

a continuous strand of carded and loosely assembled wool fibres with variable amounts of vegetable matter. Its linear density is approximately constant and it is without twist.

Carding wool or types

Wool suitable for the woollen system of yarn production where wool is carded but not combed. It is shorter than combing or worsted trade.

Catalogue

Printed list, prepared by the selling broker, showing the lot number, owner\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\'s brand, description of the wool and the number of bales in each lot. Catalogues are supplied to buyers for valuing purposes and to growers when they inspect their wool.

Catching pen

Pen adjoining the board where the shearer catches their sheep prior to shearing

Challis

A soft, plain weave, lightweight fabric, used as a base for printing.

Cheviot

A coarse tweed fabric originally made from the wool of the Cheviot sheep. Used for suits and overcoats.

Chlorine Hercosett Shrinkproofing

A procedure developed by the CSIRO to prevent wool from felting and shrinking during machine-washing and tumble-drying. The process involves a light chlorination step, followed by the application of a polymer (Hercosett).

Chute

The ramp down which a sheep slides into the let go pen after being shorn

Circular knitting machine

A knitting machine which has its needles arranged in a circle, thus producing a fabric which is tubular in form.

Classing

Grading wool into lines. Grading raw Merino according to quality.

Clean Colour

The colour of wool after scouring. Clean colour is measured in terms of brightness and yellowness, both of which can affect dyeing potential

Clip

The total amount of wool shorn on a property in one year

Cockling

A puckered irregular surface effect caused by loop distortion. Greatest potential for this type of finish in 100% wool plain knits.

Code of Practice

Industry agreed minimum standard for the preparation of the Australian wool clip

Colorimeter

Instrument used to determine the colour of wool by measuring the tri-stimulus values of the sample

Colour matching

The procedure of comparing dyed samples with a standard in order to achieve the correct shade in dyeing.

Colour space

A diagrammatical system for specifying and measuring colours, typically using three separate components.

Colour yield

The depth of colour obtained when a standard mass of colourant is applied to a material under specified conditions.

Combing

A process performed after scouring, carding and gilling to remove most of the short fibre (noil), neps and foreign matter, leaving the longer fibres lying parallel to the direction of the sliver. The product, after two more gillings, is called top.

Combing wool

Wool suitable for conversion to yarn on the worsted system. Generally, it is Merino wool having a staple length of about 40mm or greater, or crossbred wool having a staple length of about 75mm or greater

Comfort Factor

the percentage of fibres in a distribution that are finer than 30 micron in diameter

Composite fabric

A fabric composed of two or more layers of different materials.

Composition

The total blend of the fabric or yarn - e.g. 70% Merino wool, 30% silk

Conditioning

The application of moisture to dried wool fabrics to achieve a regain of 14-16%.

Conditioning Atmosphere

A volume of air, capable of being maintained at standard temperature or humidity, or both, in which specimens are conditioned in a standard atmosphere. For wool testing this is usually a temperature of 20 - 22 degrees celcius, and a relative humidity of 63 - 65 percent.

Cone

A cardboard or plastic cone shaped tube on which yarn is wound

Consistency

The uniform distribution of all the fibre characteristics within each lock and throughout the entire fleece.

Contamination

Foreign items found in wool that affects processing that falls into two categories: (1) Fibrous - baling twine, dogs hair, feathers, fertilizer bags etc – These contaminants behave just like the wool fibre and end up woven into finished fabrics and (2) Hard – metal or hard substances – bale hooks, tools, tyre levers, timber etc – if undetected cause costly damage to early stage processing machinery that usually requires production lines to close while being repaired

Continuous dyeing

Dyeing of a fabric as it passes continuously through a series of vessels.

Core sampling

Removing fibre specimens for testing by inserting a hollow tube into each bale.

Core Testing

Consists of testing a known quantity of wool for yield, fibre diameter and vegetable matter content and type; the sample is extracted from a bale of greasy wool, by means of a core of tube. Core tests are usually conducted prior to sale (pre-sale).

Cotted

Matted section of a fleece

Count

See yarn count.

Course

The row of loops across the width of a knitted fabric.

Course Fibre Content

The percentage of fibres in a distribution that are coarser than 30 micrometres

Crabbing

A setting process used to impart the required amount of flat set in wool fabrics. May be a batch or continuous process

Crease retention

The ability of a fabric to retain a pleat or a fold which has been made deliberately.

Crimp

The natural waviness of Merino fibre. Varies with the diameter of the fibre.

Crimp Definition

The degree of alignment of the crimp waves within a staple

Crimp Frequency

The number of crimp waves per centimetre of staple length. Coefficient of variation of crimp frequency refers to the variation in frequyency between staples within a lot.

Cropping

An alternative term for shearing of fabric, removal of surface fibres

Crossbred

The result of crossing two different breeds of sheep

Crossbred sheep

Generally applied to the progency of two distince sheep breeds, in Australia it is often that of a british breed and a Merino.

Crows footing

A form of cockling that occurs in woven fabrics.

Crutch

The area on a sheep around the anus

Crutching

Crutching refers to the removal of wool from around the tail and between the rear legs of a sheep. It can also refer to removing wool from the heads of sheep or the bellies of male sheep. This has a twofold purpose – minimisation of stain and as a control for possible flystrike

Cull

An inferior sheep that is removed from the flock

Curvature

The inverse of the radius of arc of a segment of a fibre snippet. Curvature is a measure of crimp expressed as degrees per millimetre.

Cut Out

The end of a particular mob of sheep within a flock

Cuticle

The outer layer of Merino fibre. See also Scales.

Dag

Wool encrusted by faeces

Dark & Medulated Fibres

Pigmented fibres usually black or grey as well as any fibres affected by stain. Medulated fibres are coarse hollow fibres that cause serious problems in the dying process that are generally found on the hocks and briskets of sheep

Dark and / or Medullated Fibre Risk (DMFR) Scheme

A voluntary vendor declaration for the risk of dark and / or medullated fibre contamination of Merino wool was introduced to Australia in July 2004, with the results reported in sale catalogues and test certificates. The risk scheme is based on the CSIRO concept of a stained and pigmented fibre risk factor for Merinos (DMFR), but extends it to include the dark and/or medullated fibre risk incurred when merino sheep come in contact with exotic sheep or their crosses. Exotic sheep are the breeds Awassi, Damara, Dorper and Karakul.

Decating

An alternative term for decatising.

Decatising

A setting process used to stabilise the properties of wool fabrics developed during finishing. May be carried out at atmospheric pressure (blowing) or elevated pressure (Kier decatising).

Degreasing (cleaning)

A bulk of raw wool covered by a single IWTO test certificate. If previously untested, all bales are samples and tested as a group. If the commponent lots have been tested individually, the texst results may be combined in accordance with IWTO-31.

Delivery or Consignment

A bulk of raw wool covered by a single IWTO test certificate. If previously untested, all bales are samples and tested as a group. If the commponent lots have been tested individually, the texst results may be combined in accordance with IWTO-31.

Dermatitis (Dermo)

A fungal condition that produces wool that is matted or clumped together

Desorption

The process of releasing moisture that has been absorbed.

Diagnostic tests

Tests to confirm a diagnosis made on the presence of clinical signs, when the cause is not immediately evident. Usually refers to tests done in a laboratory (but not always) on samples (tissues, body fluids) collected from the animal.

Differentiated fibre technologies

Modifications to wool (mostly chemical treatments) to enhance its usefulness in carpet manufacture.

Diffusion

Movement of dye molecules into the fibre.

Direct printing

Application of colour directly to the substrate as required by design.

Discharge printing

The pattern is produced by applying chemicals that will destroy the dyes in the predyed fabric.

Dispersion

Separation of clumps into tiny particles that can then spread throughout the liquid.

Drape

Finishing processes which use no aqueous water, that is, may use steam or no moisture at all.

Drenches

Animal remedies administered by mouth (i.e. orally). Usually refers to worm remedies (syn. anthelmintics), but could also mean nutritional supplements or other medicines.

Dry Finishing

Only using steam to relax or press garments.

Dump

The process of compressing bales, usually greasy wool, to a denssity exceeding 500 kg / m3 and restraining them with bands or wires. Commonly, three bales are dumped to form a tri-pack

Dyebath

The solution, usually water-based, containing the dyes, dyeing assistants and any other chemicals required for dyeing.

Dyeing assistant

A chemical added to the dyebath to assist in the dyeing process.

Dyestuff

An alternative term to dye. Easy-care

A wool garment that has received a shrink-resist treatment so that it can be machine washed and tumble dried without suffering any deterioration in appearance or performance.

Etamine

A soft, lightweight, loosely-woven worsted fabric.

Eveness

Relates to the uniformity of the fleece principally in terms of quality number and length

Ewe

A female sheep Exhaust dyeing

The use of a dyebath of a relatively large liquor-to-goods ratio in which the fibres are immersed for some time to allow the molecules to leave the bath and attach to the fibres.

Exhaustion

The leaving of the dye from a dyebath and becoming attached to the fibre being dyed.

Exotic

Not occurring in Australia.

Exotic Breeds

The term applied to breeds of sheep introduced to Australia, including Awassi, Damara, Dorper and Karakul. They are characterised by a fleece that seasonally sheds dark and/or medullated fibres, and as such have been given a high AWEX Breed Risk Rating of 5. Contact between exotic breeds and the Merino sheep increases the risk of dark and/or medullated fibre contamination of Merino wool.

Extensibility

Refers to how easily a fibre / yarn / fabric can be stretched.

External

On the outside (skin) of the animal’s body. Usually refers to parasites, such as ticks, lice and blowfly. Related term: Ectoparasite – external parasite

Fair Isle

A form of pattering in knitwear using multiple colours. Traditionally from the….

Fancy Yarn

A yarn that is different. During manufacture faults or irregularities are deliberately introduced in order to obtain interesting textural and visual effects.

Fastness

The ability of a dyed substrate to retain its colour under the action of light, washing, rubbing, perspiration, etc.

Fault

Contamination, especially vegetable matter, in greasy or semi-processed wool. A fault may also include broken ends, missed picks, knitting lines, etc from the fabric forming process.

Felt

An ancient technique that produces a non-woven sheet of matted Merino. Felt is produced with interlocking of fibres and may be produced from woven or knitted substrate, or directly from the loose fibres.

Felting

The matting together of Merino fibres.

Feral

Wild. Refers to domestic animals which are now running wild, such as dogs, cats and pigs

Fibre

A single strand of wool within a fleece. A unit of matter characterised by having a length at least 100 times its diameter or width. The fundamental component used in making Merino yarns and fabrics.

Fibre diameter

Measured by the latest in computer technology or an airflow instrument, and reported in microns (µ).

Fibre diameter distribution

The distribution of the fibre diametre in a wool sample. Distribution can be expressed as a frequency table or a frequency histogram with data grouped into class intervals of one micron, and integer micron values as midpoints of the class intervals. The results may also be expressed as a standard deviation, coefficient of variation and the percentage of fibres coarser than a given value such as 30 micron. Fibre diameter distribution is measured by both the Sirolan Laserscan and the OFDA instruments.

Fibre fineness

The mean fibre diameter which is usually expressed in microns (µ).

Filament

A continuous single strand of fibre. Mostly refers to synthetics, but also applies to reeled silk.

Fine Wool

Merino wool that has a diameter range of 18.6 to 20.5 micron. A fine wool Merino generally produces a greasy fleece weight of 3-5kg, from an adult bodyweight of 35-40kg.

Finishing

Any process performed on a fabric following weaving or knitting. Includes cleaning, dyeing, setting processes and processes which alter the surface properties of the fabric.

Fixation

A dye molecule becomes firmly fixed in one site.

Flannel

A soft, woven Merino fabric with a raised surface.

Flat bed knitting machine

Flat knitting machine with one or more needle beds.

Flat screen

A metal frame over which a synthetic filament mesh fabric has been stretched.

Fleece

The main body of wool that forms the sheep’s coat

Flock

A large grouping of sheep that have been run under the same farm management conditions for the entire wool growing season, for example, they have been crutched and shorn at the same time. A flock may comprise a number of mobs for one wool growing enterprise.

Fluidity

How supple a garment is - important for comfort.

Flyblown

Sheep or wool infested or affected with or by maggots

Free, Nearly Free (FNF)

A term that is applied to wool that is free or nearly free of vegetable fault. Typically the percentage of vegetable matter base is less than one percent

Fribs

Second cuts, pencil locks, or small pieces of wool clinging to the fleece

Fulling

Making use of wool fibres unique ability to felt and shrink to produce a fabric more dense than can be produced from knitting or weaving. An alternative term for milling.

FWEC

Faecal worm egg count. A diagnostic test to identify and count eggs of adult roundworms in a sample of the dung (faeces) of live sheep. Used as a measure of the presence and severity of a worm infestation. Related terms: FEC – faecal egg count, WEC – worm egg count

Gabardine

A sturdy, tightly-woven twill fabric. Suitable for trousers, suiting, raincoats and sportswear.

Garment Dyeing

Dyeing of garments in final apparel form.

Gauge

In knitting, gauge is the number of whales and/or stitches per length/width of a knitted fabric. May be expressed as needles per inch or needles per 1.5inches.

Genome

The genetic material of organisms (plants and animals) which determines their hereditary characteristics.

Gill Box

The machinery used for the gilling process.

Gilling

Gilling is the blending together of card slivers with the direction of feed alternated to make a final sliver suitable for spinning. In worsted processing, three gilling operations are usually carried out prior to combing and two after combing.

Glauber’s Salt

Sodium Sulphate used in combination with a detergent during scouring.

Grab Sampling

A method of taking a representative samples from packages of textile fibres. A jaw is driven by a machine into the packages and when withdrawn brings out a sample of fibres. Grqab samples can be used to measure length and strength

Grade

The classification system used to describe raw Merino.

Grease

A fatty, pale yellow wax that coats raw Merino fibre and yields lanolin.

Greasy wool

Wool as it is shorn from the sheep, before any processing.

Handle

The quality of fabric, yarn or fibre assessed by the reaction obtained from the sense of touch. It is concerned with the judgment of roughness, smoothness, harshness, pliability, thickness, softness, etc.

Handspun

Yarns which are spun by hand using a spinning wheel or electric spinner.

Harris Tweed

Traditional woollen tweed, hand woven in the Outer Hebrides in Scotland. Used for coats and jackets.

Hauteur (H, mm)

Hauteur is mean fibre length in a top. Hauteur is usually regarded as a numerical average (i.e.. Assumes no relationship between fibre length and diameter), but is actually a length-biased distribution. The variation in the length is expressed as CvH%.

Heat of absorption

Heat energy released when Merino absorbs water from the atmosphere, can be liquid or gaseous form.

Heat of combustion

The heat evolved when a definite quantity of a substance is completely oxidized (burned).

Herringbone

A woven twill fabric with a reversing twill line that creates a zig zag pattern

Hogget

Young sheep approx. 12-18 months of age

Hogget Wool

In Australia, hogget wool comes from young sheep that are usually shorn as lambs, with the first fleeced then know as hogget wool

HT

High temperature.

Hungry Fine

A term applied to wool which is unnaturally fine, due to under-nourishment over an extended period

Hydro-entangled

An innovation in non-woven technology in which carded wool is passed through high-pressure water jets to intermingle and bind the fibres.

Hydroextraction

The application of mechanical force, or centrifugal force, or suction, to remove liquid water from fabrics.

Hydrophilic

Water loving, absorbs water readily.

Hydrophobic

Tending to repel and not absorb water.

Hygroscopic

Readily absorbs moisture from the atmosphere.

Impression

unevenness after garment pressing, usually around any areas of extra thickness such as pockets and seams.

Inlay

extra piece of fabric in the garment’s seam, to allow for future alteration.

Interlining (Interfacing)

layer of fabric inserted between the front and the lining of a jacket or coat. This gives stability, shaperetention and strength. The interlining can be sewn in or bonded by heat.

Iron

hand tool used when pressing a garment. This is usually pointed at the front and square at the rear with a handle at the top so that a balanced grip may be obtained. Irons are generally heated by electricity butover many years alternative methods have included gas,steam, charcoal or a stove.

Indirect printing

The pattern is not produced by the direct application of colour, but in other ways such as resist and discharge styles.

Infectious

Capable of infecting an animal and causing disease. Infectious agents are bacteria and viruses. Footrot and Ovine Johnes Disease are examples of infectious diseases. Infectious diseases can be transmitted by direct contact between animals (contagious diseases), or by a carrier or vector, such as an insect.

Intelligent textiles

Smart textiles

Internal

Inside the animal’s body. Usually refers to parasites, such as worms (roundworms, fluke, tapeworm). Related term: Endoparasite

IWTO

An international forum for establishing standardised test procedures (IWTO Test Specifications), regulations governing the use of these procedures (IWTO Regulations), and procedures for arbitrating disputes over commercial transactions involving raw wool, wool sliver and wool yarns (the IWTO Blue Book). IWTO is pivotal in providing a technical and commercial framework for international and intra-national trade involving wool. Representation within IWTO is via National Committees appointed by the WOol Industry associations within member countries

Jacquard

A woven fabric with a detailed pattern produced on a jacquard machine. These machines are capable of producing designs by the individual control of each warp yarn.

Jersey

A soft, plain-knitted fabric used for clothing. The face has vertical ribs and the reverse has horizontal ribs. Jersey is very elastic, crease-resistant and wears and washes well.

Jet dyeing machine

A machine for dyeing fabric in rope form in which the fabric is carried through a narrow throat by dye liquor circulated at high velocity.

Jetting

A method for applying a remedy against external parasites, using a jetting wand or jetting comb.

Jet or Jetting(also known in Ireland as a Jeet)

A narrow strip of fabric usually cut on the warp and then sewn parallel to the pocket opening, turned over and forming the pocket-mouth edge.

Jetted Pocket

A pocket normally found on the front of a jacket on which the edges are finished by the application of jettings (see above). This pocket often has a flap sewn between the jettings.

Jigger

The button sewn on the inside of the left front on a double breasted jacket or coat, which fastens through the buttonhole on the edge of the right front to support the fabric which forms the overlap of fabric on the front.

Jumper Press

A type of under pressing iron that is mounted on the end of a swing arm through which pressure can be applied by linkage to a foot operated pedal. Used for pressing open seams.

Jig

A dyeing machine in which fabric in open width is transferred repeatedly back and forth from one roller to another; and passes each time through a relatively small volume of dyebath liquor.

Jigger

An alternative term for a jig.

Jowl

Wool from around the sheep’s jaw which can be matted or seedy

Keratin

A protein substance which is the chief component of Merino fibre. Also human hair, other animal hair and fur, feathers, silk.

Knitting

A method of constructing fabric by interlocking a series of loops of one or more yarns.

Lamb

Young sheep from new born to 12 months of age (or when the first 2 permanent teeth erupt)

Lambswool

The first clip of wool shorn from lambs up to eight months old. The wool is soft, slippery and resilient and used for fine grade fabrics.

Lanolin

Also known as wool grease; this substance is a secretion from the sebaceous glands of the sheep. Often used for cosmetic applications.